March 24 through April 2, 2016 Travelogue
During this trip to Japan, I met my cousin in Tokyo, visited friends in Osaka, and met up with friends from Berkeley, California in Kyoto.
I stayed at the Business Inn Sennichimae Hotel, a low budget hotel in Osaka, that I used as my base as I traveled to various places. I appreciated the complimentary breakfast which was always bread and butter, an overcooked hardboiled egg, and sliced banana. Coffee and tea were also provided.
March 25. I visited my friend in Bentencho, Osaka and together we went to meet her daughter, who lived about an hour away by subway. We ate at a kaitensushi restaurant and shopped at Daiso, a 100 yen store where I was delighted to find some origami paper. We also had a dessert called manju that had a fresh strawberry inside.
March 26. I met my friends from Berkeley at their hotel in Kyoto and together we explored the Sanjusangendo Shrine and had a fabulous meal at a restaurant on the main avenue, Shijo Dori.
After lunch, we visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine.
March 27 and 28. On the train ride from Osaka to Tokyo, I caught a glimpse of Mt. Fuji, always a warm pleasure.
I enjoyed visiting my cousin, her two daughters, and her granddaughter in Tokyo. I stayed at the Hotel Sunroute Shimbashi, conveniently located near the Shimbashi train station.
We visited Hama-rikyu Gardens and saw a venerable pine tree that was planted 300 years ago to commemorate renovations made by the sixth shogun, Ienobu.
We topped the evening with dinner at a shabu shabu restaurant.
March 29. Visited the Kaiyudan Aquarium.
I had dinner at Genrokusushi, the restaurant that 50 years ago started conveyor belt sushi, inspired by beer factory conveyor belts.
I went to the Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum to look at ancient woodblocks.
Kakinoha sushi probably originated in Nara during the Edo period (1603-1868). Nara was far from fishing ports and before refrigeration, salt was used to preserve fish, but rendered the food inedible. It has evolved into sushi flavored with seasoned vinegar and topped with thin pressed slices of mackerel or salmon. Each piece is then wrapped in a persimmon leaf. I was first introduced to this food by a friend in 2012 and have since sought it out when I visit Japan, usually at the Shin-Osaka train station. It is also available in Osaka and Nara.
March 30. Since I had my Japan Rail Pass, it was an easy decision to visit Hiroshima and Miyajima Island, one of my favorite places in all of Japan. Even with the crowds, the smell of grilled eel and oysters, and endless shops, the island exudes a magical feeling that touches my soul.
Itsukushima, popularly known as Miyajima Island, was and is considered sacred and is located less than an hour from the city of Hiroshima. There was a time when women and the infirm were not allowed to visit. Shintoism, the indigenous religion of the Japanese, and Buddhism have coexisted there for centuries. There are no structures on the top of the mountain because they may agitate the thousands of Shinto deities that dwell there. The Buddhist temples on the island allow people to participate in cleansing rituals, prayers, and offerings.
I enjoy visiting Miyajima Island and in the future would like to stay overnight to experience the high tide and the stone lanterns that are lit at night when the shops are closed and the tourists have taken the last ferry to the mainland.
March 31. I loved visiting Uji, the tea capital of Japan, not only for tea, but for the Byodo-in Museum.
The Byodo-in Temple was originally built in 998 as a retreat villa and was purchased by a powerful politician, Fujiwara no Michinaga. His son converted it to a Buddhist Temple in 1052 and added the Phoenix Hall. An outline of the beloved temple is on the 10 yen coin and a phoenix is represented on the 10,000 yen bank note.
April 1. Went back to Uji to visit the Tale of Genji Museum. I took the subway to Shin Osaka, a train to Kyoto, and the JR Nara train to Uji. I started a bit late and only had half an hour to look at the exhibits. I’d definitely like to visit Uji again and spend the night to take in this lovely city.
April 2. I decided to go early to Kansai Airport even though my flight didn’t leave until 9 p.m. I enjoyed the modern spaciousness of the airport and the many shops and restaurants on the third floor. They even had Daiso, one of Japan’s 100 yen shops, that was great fun for purchasing small souvenirs.
As with any trip to Japan, I always have a mental list of things I’d like to do next time, places to revisit, and new things to see and do. What a splendid and memorable visit!