When I planned my trip to Japan in 2012, I wanted to learn as much Japanese as I could before meeting my relatives for the first time. I signed up for a weekly Japanese language class at a senior community center where I met people with different levels of knowledge. I soon discovered that some of the students had been attending the class for seven years and had not made any progress toward fluency. Since I was in a hurry, I asked a favorite waitress at the local sushi restaurant if she could help me. She said she was from Okinawa and did not want me to learn her dialect, so she gave me contact information for her friend (I’ll call her Maiko) who grew up in Tokyo. Maiko showed me how to change the language settings on my computer to type in Japanese and helped me compose emails to my relatives. We even spoke with my relatives using Skype. It was a great experience.
When I returned from my trip, I signed up with tutors over the next two years. However, a weekly hour with a tutor was not helpful – and the cost – usually $35 to $40 an hour for a block of ten lessons was not working for me. Once the session ended, I went back to my English speaking world and did not reinforce what I had learned. Considering the math, I decided that the tutoring money was better spent booking flights to Japan whenever I could and immersing myself in the language and culture of Japan. Every trip brings chances for practicing the language, tasting delicious food, and experiencing memorable and joyous times with my relatives.
The Japanese love spaghetti so much that they think they invented it. They actually reinvented the dish by adapting it to their palate. Tomatoes were hard to come by so they mixed ketchup and Worcestershire sauce in the early days. Now, the chefs have created sauces and recipes to complement the seafood, shiitake mushrooms, and sea vegetables readily available in Japan. At the Kansai International Airport, I was going to catch a flight back to Las Vegas and arrived early. Thinking of American taste, I noticed a restaurant called the Margherita Kitchen with plastic food displays and ordered ketchup spaghetti; however, I decided that ketchup tastes better on hamburgers and French fries and couldn’t finish the meal. I’ll be sure to try another dish when I’m in Osaka again.
Home cooks in Japan use olive oil and butter with soy sauce or chicken or vegetable broth for the sauce and add whatever is handy. Instead of Parmesan cheese, they might add shredded nori as a garnish. It’s a very versatile and budget friendly dish.
My daughter is fond of Japanese spaghetti so I usually pick up several prepackaged mixes for her at an Asian market.
The dragonfly is such a common motif in artwork that I was motivated to research this amazing insect.
In regions around the world where dragonflies inhabit the area, there is usually a profound reverence for these insects. In Japan, they are called tonbo (トンボ) and usually appear in autumn. Dragonflies have two sets of wings that are independent of each other and allow for great maneuverability and speed. They fly with and against the wind and some species have flown over oceans. Their wings can reflect colors from their environment. They are good predators that control insect populations such as mosquitoes.
Dragonflies can fly from 19 to 38 miles per hour depending on the species (there are over 5,000) and live a month to six months. They have compound eyes that have up to 50,000 lenses, or ommatidia, and can see 360 degrees at once. All of these attributes resonated with many samurai, who decorated their clothing, armor, and weapons with likenesses of the dragonfly to remind them of strength, perseverance, and victory.
Fossil remains have established that ancestors of the dragonfly have been around for over 300 million years.
For a culture with an emphasis on “we” and “us,” the Daruma doll provides an opportunity for the Japanese to state and pursue a personal goal. The doll is in the likeness of Bodhidharma, the founder of Zen Buddhism, and is usually made of paper mâché with a weighted base. The dolls are often given as gifts but may be purchased by the individual having a wish, for instance, for a good outcome from an illness, success in business, or excellent test scores. A new doll always has blank eyes. The instructions are simple: When you know what you want to accomplish, draw a black pupil in the doll’s left eye. Place the doll on a shelf to remind yourself of the goal. When the goal is achieved, draw in the other pupil. Congratulations!
When I lived in Los Angeles, I noticed that many of the Japanese-owned businesses had ceramic cats with a raised paw displayed on a shelf or on the counter next to the cash register. I found out later that these cats are called maneki-neko or beckoning cats. I thought the cat was waving but it was actually beckoning customers and is a good luck charm. (When the Japanese want you to come to them, they use their palms down and use a gesture with their fingers as if scratching the air.)
There are many stories about the origin of the beckoning cat, but my favorite is about a poor merchant who had little food but shared it with a cat. The grateful cat stood at the door to welcome customers into the shop and the merchant soon became prosperous. A wood carving was made of the cat that evolved into ceramic or plastic figurines. The cats are usually white with a collar, bell, bib and a coin called a koban, representing a coin used in the Edo period.
Ichigo ichie is a Japanese phrase that has its roots in Zen Buddhism and the tea ceremony. It had its start in the 16th century and means “one time, one chance,” relating to the transient nature of life. When a host prepares for a tea ceremony, it could take days to ensure that everything goes perfectly and a formal tea gathering could last up to four hours. The guests understand that the occasion can never be repeated, treasure the group encounter, and sincerely appreciate the efforts of the host.
The tea ceremony was originally practiced by the nobility and as tea became accessible to the common people, its practice spread throughout Japan.
This concept has been sewn into the fabric of Japanese life. One meeting with a person or group can never be repeated because even if you meet again the next day, all the elements of the previous meeting will have changed. Many tourists and friends of the Japanese have noted that the Japanese are gracious hosts and display consideration for their guests beyond common manners. This is the influence of ichigo ichie.
Also words to live by, in America, many people have seen this quote by Etienne de Grellet. They have clipped the passage and kept it in their wallets, posted it on the refrigerator door, and recited it to their children: “I shall pass this way but once; any good that I can do or any kindness I can show to any human being; let me do it now. Let me not defer nor neglect it, for I shall not pass this way again.”
Karoshi is a Japanese term meaning death due to overwork. It was coined in 1978 when a number of employees died from strokes and heart attacks caused by overwork.
The corporate culture has always been able to exploit the Japanese customs of company loyalty, team work, and peer pressure. In the years following World War II, when much of the country had to be rebuilt, the nation’s workers were dedicated to cooperation and hard work that resulted in bringing Japan astounding success as a world economic power in a relatively short period of time. Sometimes, the only words spoken when men returned home were the words for food and bath to their longsuffering and lonely wives.
In the 1980s and 90s when the economy took a downturn, staff had to be laid off. The remaining employees worked harder to complete the tasks that did not diminish after the layoffs. The men working long hours for the sake of the company ended up devaluing the family and resenting family obligations.
Some things that are still part of a “salaryman’s” life are long hours and long commutes, hesitancy to take sick and vacation days and the tendency to put the business above the family unit. Many employees take less than half an hour to eat lunch because of peer pressure, the silent gaze of their coworkers.
The documentary, “Happy” (2011) examines the meaning of happiness by visiting, observing, and interviewing people in more than a dozen countries. There is a segment on Japan as being the least happy of all the industrialized nations. Included is an interview of a young wife who lost her husband because of karoshi.
My friend in Japan, Koji (not his real name), has a stressful IT job but claims to be happy even though he lives in a different city from his wife and son in an apartment that is subsidized by the company. He says that he and his wife have the same goals in life, mainly to pay off the mortgage and help their son go to a university. He sees his family every few weeks and they go out for dinner or on a mini vacation, but it is often difficult to synchronize their time off as his wife works at a convenience store and his son attends two cram schools in addition to regular school. Koji prefers to see his glass as half full.
Some corporations are finally responding to lawsuits filed by spouses and families of karoshi victims. They are encouraging time off for vacations and shorter work hours. It is a law that companies must pay overtime but there has long been a practice of free overtime, overtime that is often unrecorded and uncompensated. Koji says his company pays overtime and news stations are naming the companies that do not pay. In a society where conduct is influenced by shame, the media is now playing a role in shaming the companies into paying overtime.
“Karoshi” was coined over 35 years ago, and Japanese society is still dealing with a term that makes a far too frequent appearance.
Sources:
Happy. Dir. Roko Belic. Perf. Anne Bechsgaard, Gregory Bechsgaard, Gregory Burns. Wadi Rum Films, Inc., 2011. Film.
My hotel was about five minutes away from the popular Dotonbori area of Osaka. These are some photos of this vibrant part of the city with unique signboards and wonderful eateries.
I tasted takoyaki balls, a popular snack food that originated in Osaka, for the first time. The man who made them had thinning black hair, but look at his flawless hand!Ganko Sushi is part of a chain, but has consistent high recommendations for delicious and reasonably priced meals
Discount shop located along the Dotonbori canalManhole covers are often decorated
Fugu has been on my bucket list on trips to Japan because it is a poisonous blowfish containing tetrodotoxin and chefs have to be apprenticed for two to three years and certified to be able to prepare the fish. The eyes, intestines, ovaries, and liver of the fish are extremely poisonous. The Emperor of Japan is forbidden to eat the fish. I figured, what better place than Japan in a fugu restaurant to taste the fish? American restaurants serve it, but the fish are prepared by Japanese chefs, frozen, and flown to American restaurants. I had my first taste at the Zuboraya restaurant and while the sashimi fish was light and delicious, I’ll probably stick to tuna and salmon in the future for my sashimi fix.
During this trip to Japan, I met my cousin in Tokyo, visited friends in Osaka, and met up with friends from Berkeley, California in Kyoto.
I stayed at the Business Inn Sennichimae Hotel, a low budget hotel in Osaka, that I used as my base as I traveled to various places. I appreciated the complimentary breakfast which was always bread and butter, an overcooked hardboiled egg, and sliced banana. Coffee and tea were also provided.
March 25. I visited my friend in Bentencho, Osaka and together we went to meet her daughter, who lived about an hour away by subway. We ate at a kaitensushi restaurant and shopped at Daiso, a 100 yen store where I was delighted to find some origami paper. We also had a dessert called manju that had a fresh strawberry inside.
A convenient meeting place at the Bentencho stationOsaka has many places for bicycle parking
March 26. I met my friends from Berkeley at their hotel in Kyoto and together we explored the Sanjusangendo Shrine and had a fabulous meal at a restaurant on the main avenue, Shijo Dori.
It had been a bit cold and the blooms of the cherry blossom had not made a grand appearance yet. There were a few trees with full blooms.
After lunch, we visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine.
The torii gates became smaller as we went along the pathFox spirits guard the rice. Everyone was snapping pictures of this fox because a cat found a nice place to rest.
March 27 and 28. On the train ride from Osaka to Tokyo, I caught a glimpse of Mt. Fuji, always a warm pleasure.
I enjoyed visiting my cousin, her two daughters, and her granddaughter in Tokyo. I stayed at the Hotel Sunroute Shimbashi, conveniently located near the Shimbashi train station.
We visited Hama-rikyu Gardens and saw a venerable pine tree that was planted 300 years ago to commemorate renovations made by the sixth shogun, Ienobu.
A single pine tree with branches that have spilled out to the sides for over 300 years, assisted by manmade bamboo supports. A regal presence.
A beautiful flower garden in the park
We topped the evening with dinner at a shabu shabu restaurant.
March 29. Visited the Kaiyudan Aquarium.
I had dinner at Genrokusushi, the restaurant that 50 years ago started conveyor belt sushi, inspired by beer factory conveyor belts.
I went to the Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum to look at ancient woodblocks.
Kakinoha sushi probably originated in Nara during the Edo period (1603-1868). Nara was far from fishing ports and before refrigeration, salt was used to preserve fish, but rendered the food inedible. It has evolved into sushi flavored with seasoned vinegar and topped with thin pressed slices of mackerel or salmon. Each piece is then wrapped in a persimmon leaf. I was first introduced to this food by a friend in 2012 and have since sought it out when I visit Japan, usually at the Shin-Osaka train station. It is also available in Osaka and Nara.
A special occasion food
March 30. Since I had my Japan Rail Pass, it was an easy decision to visit Hiroshima and Miyajima Island, one of my favorite places in all of Japan. Even with the crowds, the smell of grilled eel and oysters, and endless shops, the island exudes a magical feeling that touches my soul.
Itsukushima, popularly known as Miyajima Island, was and is considered sacred and is located less than an hour from the city of Hiroshima. There was a time when women and the infirm were not allowed to visit. Shintoism, the indigenous religion of the Japanese, and Buddhism have coexisted there for centuries. There are no structures on the top of the mountain because they may agitate the thousands of Shinto deities that dwell there. The Buddhist temples on the island allow people to participate in cleansing rituals, prayers, and offerings.
I enjoy visiting Miyajima Island and in the future would like to stay overnight to experience the high tide and the stone lanterns that are lit at night when the shops are closed and the tourists have taken the last ferry to the mainland.
Wild deer, but very gentleLocated at the back of a sweet shop – beautiful large carp.
Arashiyama GroveModern western style toilets reminding people not to squat on top of the seatAlthough rare now, this facility in Arashiyama Grove required you to buy your own toilet paper, and the machine only took 100 yen coins
March 31. I loved visiting Uji, the tea capital of Japan, not only for tea, but for the Byodo-in Museum.
Ice cream with matcha powder was delicious
The Byodo-in Temple was originally built in 998 as a retreat villa and was purchased by a powerful politician, Fujiwara no Michinaga. His son converted it to a Buddhist Temple in 1052 and added the Phoenix Hall. An outline of the beloved temple is on the 10 yen coin and a phoenix is represented on the 10,000 yen bank note.
Police station next to Uji train station. Not busy
April 1. Went back to Uji to visit the Tale of Genji Museum. I took the subway to Shin Osaka, a train to Kyoto, and the JR Nara train to Uji. I started a bit late and only had half an hour to look at the exhibits. I’d definitely like to visit Uji again and spend the night to take in this lovely city.
April 2. I decided to go early to Kansai Airport even though my flight didn’t leave until 9 p.m. I enjoyed the modern spaciousness of the airport and the many shops and restaurants on the third floor. They even had Daiso, one of Japan’s 100 yen shops, that was great fun for purchasing small souvenirs.
As with any trip to Japan, I always have a mental list of things I’d like to do next time, places to revisit, and new things to see and do. What a splendid and memorable visit!
I didn’t know the story of Hachiko until one of my tutors mentioned it and I discovered a heartbreaking story.
Hachiko was an Akita dog born on a farm in Akita prefecture in Japan on November 10, 1923. He was named Hachiko because hachi means eight, and he was the eighth in the litter. Ko means prince or duke. Hachiko was purchased by Professor Hidesaburo Ueno, a professor in the agriculture department of the University of Tokyo, then known as Tokyo Imperial University. The professor and dog formed an unusual bond as they walked together to the Shibuya train station in Tokyo where Professor Ueno boarded a train to work. The dog started to show up at the station every evening at 4 p.m. and they would walk home together.
In May of 1925, the professor died from a cerebral hemorrhage while at work and did not return home. Hachiko continued to go to the train station to meet his owner, a vigil that lasted for almost ten years. One of Ueno’s former students, familiar with the sight of Hachiko, followed him home and discovered that he had been given to a former gardener and was able to learn about Hachiko’s history. His story about the faithful dog appeared in a major newspaper, the Asahi Shimbun, on October 4, 1932, and Hachiko was elevated to legendary status. Commuters saved portions of their lunches and gave him treats. A bronze statue was erected in 1934 shortly before Hachiko’s death but later had to be melted down for the war effort. After the war, a new statue was created by the son of the original sculptor and remains in front of the Shibuya station.
On March 8, 1935, the lifeless body of Hachiko was found in a Tokyo street. Doctors found worms and yakitori sticks in his body, but determined that he died of terminal cancer.
In commemoration of 90 years after the death of Professor Ueno and 80 years after the death of Hachiko, a statue depicting a joyous reunion was commissioned by the faculty of the agriculture department of the University of Tokyo and unveiled in March of 2015.
The story inspired an American movie, Hachi, A Dog’s Tale, starring Richard Gere released in 2009.
Home cooks in Japan use olive oil and butter with soy sauce or chicken or vegetable broth for the sauce and add whatever is handy. Instead of Parmesan cheese, they might add shredded nori as a garnish. It’s a very versatile and budget friendly dish.
Personal Goals
Fugu has been on my bucket list on trips to Japan because it is a poisonous blowfish containing tetrodotoxin and chefs have to be apprenticed for two to three years and certified to be able to prepare the fish. The eyes, intestines, ovaries, and liver of the fish are extremely poisonous. The Emperor of Japan is forbidden to eat the fish. I figured, what better place than Japan in a fugu restaurant to taste the fish? American restaurants serve it, but the fish are prepared by Japanese chefs, frozen, and flown to American restaurants. I had my first taste at the Zuboraya restaurant and while the sashimi fish was light and delicious, I’ll probably stick to tuna and salmon in the future for my sashimi fix.
After lunch, we visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine.
March 29. Visited the Kaiyudan Aquarium.
