Death by Overwork

Karoshi

Karoshi is a Japanese term meaning death due to overwork.  It was coined in 1978 when a number of employees died from strokes and heart attacks caused by overwork.

The corporate culture has always been able to exploit the Japanese customs of company loyalty, team work, and peer pressure. In the years following World War II, when much of the country had to be rebuilt, the nation’s workers were dedicated to cooperation and hard work that resulted in bringing Japan astounding success as a world economic power in a relatively short period of time.  Sometimes, the only words spoken when men returned home were the words for food and bath to their longsuffering and lonely wives.

In the 1980s and 90s when the economy took a downturn, staff had to be laid off. The remaining employees worked harder to complete the tasks that did not diminish after the layoffs.  The men working long hours for the sake of the company ended up devaluing the family and resenting family obligations.

Some things that are still part of a “salaryman’s” life are long hours and long commutes, hesitancy to take sick and vacation days and the tendency to put the business above the family unit. Many employees take less than half an hour to eat lunch because of peer pressure, the silent gaze of their coworkers.

The documentary, “Happy” (2011) examines the meaning of happiness by visiting, observing, and interviewing people in more than a dozen countries. There is a segment on Japan as being the least happy of all the industrialized nations.  Included is an interview of a young wife who lost her husband because of karoshi.

My friend in Japan, Koji (not his real name), has a stressful IT job but claims to be happy even though he lives in a different city from his wife and son in an apartment that is subsidized by the company. He says that he and his wife have the same goals in life, mainly to pay off the mortgage and help their son go to a university.  He sees his family every few weeks and they go out for dinner or on a mini vacation, but it is often difficult to synchronize their time off as his wife works at a convenience store and his son attends two cram schools in addition to regular school.  Koji prefers to see his glass as half full.

Some corporations are finally responding to lawsuits filed by spouses and families of karoshi victims.  They are encouraging time off for vacations and shorter work hours.  It is a law that companies must pay overtime but there has long been a practice of free overtime, overtime that is often unrecorded and uncompensated.  Koji says his company pays overtime and news stations are naming the companies that do not pay.  In a society where conduct is influenced by shame, the media is now playing a role in shaming the companies into paying overtime.

“Karoshi” was coined over 35 years ago, and Japanese society is still dealing with a term that makes a far too frequent appearance.

Sources:

Happy. Dir. Roko Belic. Perf. Anne Bechsgaard, Gregory Bechsgaard, Gregory Burns. Wadi Rum Films, Inc., 2011.  Film.

http://nypost.com/2015/02/06/japans-plan-to-stop-employees-from-working-themselves-to-death/

http://www.research.vt.edu/resmag/sciencecol/AFDC95.html

Dotonbori, a Popular Destination in Osaka

 

Dotonbori

My hotel was about five minutes away from the popular Dotonbori area of Osaka.  These are some photos of this vibrant part of the city with unique signboards and wonderful eateries.

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I tasted takoyaki balls, a popular snack food that originated in Osaka, for the first time. The man who made them had thinning black hair, but look at his flawless hand!
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Ganko Sushi is part of a chain, but has consistent high recommendations for delicious and reasonably priced meals

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Discount shop located along the Dotonbori canal
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Manhole covers are often decorated

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Japan 020Fugu has been on my bucket list on trips to Japan because it is a poisonous blowfish containing tetrodotoxin and chefs have to be apprenticed for two to three years and certified to be able to prepare the fish.  The eyes, intestines, ovaries, and liver of the fish are extremely poisonous.  The Emperor of Japan is forbidden to eat the fish.  I figured, what better place than Japan in a fugu restaurant to taste the fish?  American restaurants serve it, but the fish are prepared by Japanese chefs, frozen, and flown to American restaurants.  I had my first taste at the Zuboraya restaurant and while the sashimi fish was light and delicious, I’ll probably stick to tuna and salmon in the future for my sashimi fix.

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Source:  https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fugu

Nine Nights in Japan

March 24 through April 2, 2016 Travelogue

During this trip to Japan, I met my cousin in Tokyo, visited friends in Osaka, and met up with friends from Berkeley, California in Kyoto.

I stayed at the Business Inn Sennichimae Hotel, a low budget hotel in Osaka, that I used as my base as I traveled to various places.  I appreciated the complimentary breakfast which was always bread and butter, an overcooked hardboiled egg, and sliced banana. Coffee and tea were also provided.

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March 25.  I visited my friend in Bentencho, Osaka and together we went to meet her daughter, who lived about an hour away by subway.  We ate at a kaitensushi restaurant and shopped at Daiso, a 100 yen store where I was delighted to find some origami paper.  We also had a dessert called manju that had a fresh strawberry inside.

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A convenient meeting place at the Bentencho station
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Osaka has many places for bicycle parking

March 26.  I met my friends from Berkeley at their hotel in Kyoto and together we explored the Sanjusangendo Shrine and had a fabulous meal at a restaurant on the main avenue, Shijo Dori.

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It had been a bit cold and the blooms of the cherry blossom had not made a grand appearance yet. There were a few trees with full blooms.

Japan 048Japan 049Japan 057Japan 058Japan 059After lunch, we visited the Fushimi Inari Shrine.

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The torii gates became smaller as we went along the path
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Fox spirits guard the rice. Everyone was snapping pictures of this fox because a cat found a nice place to rest.

March 27 and 28.  On the train ride from Osaka to Tokyo, I caught a glimpse of Mt. Fuji, always a warm pleasure.

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I enjoyed visiting my cousin, her two daughters, and her granddaughter in Tokyo.  I stayed at the Hotel Sunroute Shimbashi, conveniently located near the Shimbashi train station.

We visited Hama-rikyu Gardens and saw a venerable pine tree that was planted 300 years ago to commemorate renovations made by the sixth shogun, Ienobu.

 

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A single pine tree with branches that have spilled out to the sides for over 300 years, assisted by manmade bamboo supports. A regal presence.

 

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A beautiful flower garden in the park

We topped the evening with dinner at a shabu shabu restaurant.

Japan Tamami 052March 29.  Visited the Kaiyudan Aquarium.

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I had dinner at Genrokusushi, the restaurant that 50 years ago started conveyor belt sushi, inspired by beer factory conveyor belts.

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I went to the Kamigata Ukiyoe Museum to look at ancient woodblocks.

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Kakinoha sushi probably originated in Nara during the Edo period (1603-1868).  Nara was far from fishing ports and before refrigeration, salt was used to preserve fish, but rendered the food inedible.  It has evolved into sushi flavored with seasoned vinegar and topped with thin pressed slices of mackerel or salmon.  Each piece is then wrapped in a persimmon leaf.  I was first introduced to this food by a friend in 2012 and have since sought it out when I visit Japan, usually at the Shin-Osaka train station.  It is also available in Osaka and Nara.

A special occasion food
A special occasion food

March 30.  Since I had my Japan Rail Pass, it was an easy decision to visit Hiroshima and Miyajima Island, one of my favorite places in all of Japan.  Even with the crowds, the smell of grilled eel and oysters, and endless shops, the island exudes a magical feeling that touches my soul.

Itsukushima, popularly known as Miyajima Island, was and is considered sacred and is located less than an hour from the city of Hiroshima.  There was a time when women and the infirm were not allowed to visit. Shintoism, the indigenous religion of the Japanese, and Buddhism have coexisted there for centuries.  There are no structures on the top of the mountain because they may agitate the thousands of Shinto deities that dwell there.  The Buddhist temples on the island allow people to participate in cleansing rituals, prayers, and offerings.

Miyajima

I enjoy visiting Miyajima Island and in the future would like to stay overnight to experience the high tide and the stone lanterns that are lit at night when the shops are closed and the tourists have taken the last ferry to the mainland.

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Wild deer, but very gentle
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Located at the back of a sweet shop – beautiful large carp.

 

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Arashiyama Grove
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Modern western style toilets reminding people not to squat on top of the seat
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Although rare now, this facility in Arashiyama Grove required you to buy your own toilet paper, and the machine only took 100 yen coins

March 31.  I loved visiting Uji, the tea capital of Japan, not only for tea, but for the Byodo-in Museum.

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Ice cream with matcha powder was delicious

The Byodo-in Temple was originally built in 998 as a retreat villa and was purchased by a powerful politician, Fujiwara no Michinaga.  His son converted it to a Buddhist Temple in 1052 and added the Phoenix Hall.  An outline of the beloved temple is on the 10 yen coin and a phoenix is represented on the 10,000 yen bank note.

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Police station next to Uji train station. Not busy
Police station next to Uji train station. Not busy

April 1.  Went back to Uji to visit the Tale of Genji Museum.  I took the subway to Shin Osaka, a train to Kyoto, and the JR Nara train to Uji.  I started a bit late and only had half an hour to look at the exhibits.  I’d definitely like to visit Uji again and spend the night to take in this lovely city.

April 2.  I decided to go early to Kansai Airport even though my flight didn’t leave until 9 p.m.  I enjoyed the modern spaciousness of the airport and the many shops and restaurants on the third floor.  They even had Daiso, one of Japan’s 100 yen shops, that was great fun for purchasing small souvenirs.

As with any trip to Japan, I always have a mental list of things I’d like to do next time, places to revisit, and new things to see and do.  What a splendid and memorable visit!