A Place to Die

Sea of Trees

There is a place in Japan called the Aokigahara Forest located at Mt. Fuji’s northwest base that is also known as the suicide forest or sea of trees.  Volunteers have found the remains of samurai who have committed ritual suicide, or seppuku there, indicating that it has long been a site for suicide.  Although purported to be a myth, it is plausible that in times of famine, elders were sent there to die of starvation and dehydration.  Modern deaths usually are men who have been demoted or have lost their jobs. There are occasional tents found, suggesting that the person was contemplating suicide but had not made a final decision.  Corpses of foreigners have been found there as well.  Most hang themselves or overdose on drugs.

The roots of the trees are intertwined, making for uneven and rough terrain.  The magnetic iron ore in the volcanic rock renders compasses nonfunctional and cell phones useless.  Trees often form a canopy and block out light from the sun and the moon.  Many people mark their trails with plastic tape if they intend to come back out.

Books have been written about this unique forest with an eerie silence, paucity of wildlife, and the belief that ghosts populate the forest to force visitors into the thick foliage.  Wataru Tsurumi wrote a book, The Complete Manual of Suicide, that seems to have captured the imagination of a worldwide audience.  In it, he describes and analyzes a range of suicide methods and names Aokigahara as an ideal place to die.

The intriguing stories inspired Gus Van Sant to direct a movie, Sea of Trees (2015) starring Matthew McConaughey, Naomi Watts, and Ken Watanabe.  The story takes place in Japan and the Northeast United States, but was filmed in Foxborough, Massachusetts which has a similar terrain.  A married couple has a contentious relationship because of a previous affair.  The wife has a cancer diagnosis with a positive outcome and then suffers a tragic accidental death.  Deep depression leads McConaughey’s character to purchase a one-way ticket to Tokyo to go to the forest to die.  He meets another lost individual trying to make it back to civilization and in the process of helping him find a way out, discovers compassion and messages from his wife that restore his vision of hope and purpose.

The film failed to garner interest on an empathetic level with the audience.  I viewed the movie twice, hoping that I had missed something.  I believe that a beige jacket that the character’s wife had given him symbolizes love and hope.  He wears the jacket throughout the film, and carries the drugs that will kill him in a pocket, but when the character of Ken Watanabe is  near death, McConaughey immediately takes the jacket off to make him comfortable and runs off to find help.  This was not an empty movie as some critics have concluded, but rich in effort and the tangentials that make audiences ponder aspects of their own lives.  It also informs us about the Japanese cultural perspective of suicide.

A friend told me about the DVD and it piqued my interest in learning more about the suicide forest, second to the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco as a place to commit suicide.  Although there are tours for visitors and views of Mt. Fuji, this is not on my bucket list as a place to visit or a place to die.  Not for me.

A Guided Tour in Tokyo

After our cruise ended

The trip to Yokohama was a smooth one. My flight from Narita Airport did not leave until 9 p.m. so I signed up for a tour of Tokyo.  Our guide had studied at Boulder University in Colorado and was fluent in English.  We passed Haneda Airport and made our first stop at the largest Shinto shrine in Tokyo, the Meiji Shrine. We learned that the emperor and empress were much revered by the people and there were many beautiful trees planted to honor the emperor.  There was also a car that was parked in the shrine ready to be blessed.

On the way to Asakusa Temple, we went down Omotesando Street where there are many high end shops.  Our guide mentioned that there are three Hawaiian pancake restaurants in the area and there are always long lines.  The tour was a wonderful way to bid farewell to an awesome country.

Revisiting 2013 Trip to Japan

Meeting my Relatives in Japan

I looked up my notes from my trip in 2013 to plan a trip to Japan in the spring of 2020 before the Summer Olympics.  I look forward to experiencing the millions that the Japanese government is spending on infrastructure and improvements that will make for a more tourist-friendly experience.  Hexagon-shaped stop signs are being installed to replace the triangle-shaped signs that say tomare.  Tourist maps are being reprinted and symbols replaced.  English names are being added to Japanese street signs in many of the larger cities.

I stayed at the Wing Hotel International in Miyakonojo with my Texan cousin from March 28 through April 2.  We had only met each other once or twice in our childhood and neither of us spoke Japanese, although I understood quite a bit of conversational Japanese.  We wanted to meet our aunt, but by then she had dementia and didn’t recognize us.  We met our five cousins and managed to communicate through iPhone translations, the computer and charades.  We talked about Miyazaki beef and Nobutaka, my cousin Yuriko’s husband, typed in beef in Japanese on his iPhone and it came back “two mouths”.  My cousin, Mary Ann, then imitated a cow with horns.  It was hilarious and obvious she knew cows!  We learned about their jobs and their families.  They couldn’t have been more hospitable and endearing.  The cherry blossoms were in full bloom and everywhere we went, the backdrop consisted of gentle shades of pink.  I asked about cherry blossom tea and the next day Nobutaka’s sister presented me with a small gift tin of the tea.  My cousin had asked about a sake she had tasted before and sure enough, it had been purchased and presented to her the next day.

I met my two cousins in Hiroshima and had an unforgettable experience at Miyajima Island.  Tamami had been a piano teacher and her brother,  an architect.

I had been to Japan in around 1974 with my ex-husband.  I wasn’t very observant then as I had two young sons in tow and mostly remember the narrow streets in Himeji, the wonderful aroma of yakisoba and oden coming from food vendors, and a public bath we went to with his family.  Now 40 years later, I wanted to say thank you to my former in-laws in Himeji.  We met at the train station and they took me to see Himeji Castle, a wonderful place being reconstructed.  We had lunch at a department store and we separated on pleasant terms.  When they visit San Francisco where my ex-husband now lives,  I hope I will be able to see them again.

I saw many places of interest, but realized that I am blessed with all the people I met who are my family.

“Tokyo Story” (1953)

Learning from “Tokyo Story”

In this movie, an old couple decide to travel from Onomiya to Tokyo to visit their adult children.  Once there, they are not welcomed with joy but as if they are disruptive and intrusive of the family routine.

They discover that their son, a pediatrician, is not as distinguished as they had imagined.  Their daughter-in-law is a beautician and complains to her husband that it is a waste of money to buy desserts upon their arrival.  They send the parents to a resort but the parents cannot sleep because of the late night activities.  The widow of their son is the only person who shows them any kindness and takes a day off from work to show them around.

Roger Ebert had many accolades about this movie from the story, universal themes, and technical skill of the producer.  I discovered that as many things that are unusual to westerners about Japanese customs and perspective, the way we view family dynamics, aging, and daily living are the same.

Ryukyu Glass

Symbol of Resilience

When I was in Okinawa during a short disembarkation from the cruise ship, the only venue we had time to visit was the main shopping district and I refrained from purchasing anything.  However, I had read an informational sheet about Ryukyu Glass and was fascinated by the story.  The bombing of Okinawa during WWII had destroyed much of the island and in particular the infrastructure of the glass industry.  The citizens needed to find ways to support their economy and soon realized that the sailors tossed their Coke bottles into the ocean next to the docked ships and the surf brought the bottles to the shore.

The glass industry was reborn.  The bottles were pulverized and melted down and in the beginning, practical items were created such as glassware and medicine bottles.  From there, the craft kept evolving.  The craftsmen learned how to add color and refined their techniques by adding bubbles to the glass.  Sailors started to purchase the items to send home as gifts and when Okinawa was returned to Japanese rule in 1972, tourists from the mainland purchased the handcrafted glass as souvenirs.The largest glass factory is in Okinawa but a sister plant is located in Viet Nam.  After I returned home, I ordered one glass through Amazon and noticed that it was made in Viet Nam.  I am thrilled to own it because it is beautiful and represents the resourcefulness and resilience of the Okinawan people.

Final Port of Call, Okinawa, Japan

Naha Pier, Okinawa, Japan

We were delayed in disembarking from the ship in Okinawa because of immigration procedures.  I had wanted to visit the Shurijo Castle but was told it was too late.  The only activity left was the main shopping street, Kokusai.  There were granite stone dragon pillars on the way to the shopping district.  They commemorate the friendship between Naha City and Fuzhou City, China.  In 2011, the community celebrated the 30th anniversary of the Friendship Agreement signed in 1981.

It took about half an hour to walk from the ship to Kokusai Street.  I noticed the glass tumblers and glassware on sale in many of the stores.  After the devastation of WWII, Okinawans began collecting bottles and other cast-off glass containers from the occupying U.S. troops.  The glass was melted down and re-blown into glassware items.  Servicemen began to purchase the goods to send home and a very proud industry was born.  Many of the glasses had names of their creators and ample display space.  The largest glass factory in Okinawa is called Ryukyu Glass Craft and is located in Itoman.

Mixed in with souvenir shops, there were bakery shops, convenience stores, a pharmacy, a seaweed shop, and restaurants.  A friend of mine suggested I try Okinawan soba because it is different from Japanese soba, made of wheat flour instead of buckwheat.  I found a restaurant on the fifth floor of a narrow building and had a wholesome meal.

Things had gotten better on the second half of our trip.  The weather had improved and the seas were calm.  We had two more days at sea and enjoyed the company of our dinner regulars in the Pacific Moon dining room.  We met many interesting people on the ship.  Many were celebrating their 50th wedding anniversary.  Others were newly retired or found a good deal for the cruise.  Everyone had an interesting story to tell.


 

Only Saw a Small Part of Keelung

We Docked at Keelung on Monday, November 6

I was tired from the previous day’s excursion and decided to walk to a nearby shopping area where there were many vendor stalls.  I had exchanged ten U.S. dollars for Taiwan dollars so I’d be able to try some steamed dumplings.  I didn’t find steamed dumplings but observed a family working hard creating sandwiches with deep fried dough.  A young woman was expertly snipping the hot bread and filling it with sausage, onion, cucumber, hard boiled egg, and tomatoes.  I purchased one and it was delicious.

I didn’t find anything I wanted to buy so I made my way back to the ship.

I reflected on some things that didn’t go right for me.  At McCarran International Airport in Las Vegas, my denim blouse had metal snaps and it set off the alarm.  A female agent felt around my breasts and quipped, “One way to get a free breast exam.”  Not funny.  At another station, my check-in luggage contained a plastic jar of Metamucil, to add fiber to my diet, and the inspector had to check the container and my hands for explosives.  On the trip back, my bra must have set off the alarm because an agent felt the sides of my chest.  At another check-in station, the woman said the image showed metal in my groin, so she felt there.

At Narita Airport, after I had already been through the initial check point, a Japanese agent pleasantly said, “You have been randomly selected for additional screening.”  Well, the Japanese have a difficult time pronouncing r, so to me it sounded like “landonly” and I didn’t recognize the word.  When I gradually realized what she was saying, I said “randomly” with annoyance.  A male officer came to me and showed me the inspection table, a few feet away.  I was asked to take off my shoes and take out my iPad and phone.  A woman checked my shoes and all of a sudden, said, “You’re done, thank you for your cooperation.”

I carried the cabin keycard in a pouch around my neck and frequently used it to get in and out of the cabin as well as make purchases of merchandise and excursions.  For some reason, the card kept getting demagnetized and I had to get replacement cards about six times.  It was no small annoyance when my roommate was out and about.  I sometimes carried a pen or gum in the pouch and just can’t figure out how my card could get demagnetized so often.

 

Cruise Port Kaohsiung Taiwan November 5, 2017

November 5, 2017 A Slightly Delayed Docking

I had booked an excursion and looked forward to getting a glimpse of Taiwan.  However, because we were late getting into port, the excursion times were revised and the tour seemed rushed and abbreviated.  We first went to see the National Stadium which opened in 2009 for the World Games.  It holds 55,000 people and was designed by Japanese architect Toyo Ito.  Built in the shape of a dragon, it was the first stadium in the world to generate power using solar power technology.

National Stadium, Taiwan

We then went to Lotus Park which must be beautiful in July when the flowers bloom.  There were many temples there and we visited the Dragon Tiger Tower.  Our guide told us it is considered propitious to go into the temple through the dragon and come out through the tiger.  The park is popular for water sports and recreational activities.

Our next venue was Cijin Island, reached by taking a five-minute ferry ride from Kaohsiung Harbor.  It was Sunday and we were mixed in with locals and tourists so there were long lines to board the ferry.  The motorcycles went on the first level and the rest of us went to the second level.  Once on the island, we found a temple, seafood markets, restaurants, and all kinds of vendors and then we were rewarded by reaching a beach with black sand.  A few photographs and it was time to return to our meeting place.  The guides could be seen trying to make an accurate headcount for the ferry ride.

 

Halfway into our Cruise Around Asia, Hong Kong

November 3 and 4, 2017  We Disembarked in Hong Kong

After eight days at sea without interesting views,  many of us stood outside to take pictures of Hong Kong on our arrival in the late evening of November 2.

I had met three students from Hong Kong when I took a bus tour of the national parks earlier in the year, in May, 2017.  Until then, I did not know much about Hong Kong.  The students explained that Cantonese is spoken there and told me about its history.  One of them, Michael, said he would be happy to show me around when I visited Hong Kong on November 3.  We agreed to meet at the Kai Tak Terminal at noon.  He had been so busy with exams that he did not have time to respond to my email asking him if he was coming by car.  I alternated between the passenger pick up area on the second floor and the WiFi area on the first floor.  We found each other as I was thinking I’d be so disappointed if we did not meet up because of the missed ports and bad weather.  Michael showed me how to use my senior transit pass that I purchased at the first bus station and we traveled by bus, train, tram, and ferry to venues around the city.

Michael remembered that I had wanted to try dim sum in Hong Kong and he took me to Tim Ho Wan Dim Sum Restaurant, a Michelin rated restaurant that is the pride of Hong Kong.  Fortunately, it wasn’t crowded when we arrived and all the items Michael ordered were very delicious!

We traveled by train, bus, and tram to reach Victoria Peak, where we saw a panoramic view of Hong Kong Island, Victoria Harbor, and the Kowloon Peninsula, albeit a bit marred by the pollution from China.  Michael’s friend, Samson, joined us for dinner at a Thai Restaurant in a shopping mall which was also wonderful.  Michael is an engineering major and Samson is a chemistry major.  They both earn money to fund their travels through tutoring.

We were given a copy of a cruise summary at the end of our voyage and for Hong Kong, the log book mentioned sunny skies, a gentle breeze, and a temperature of 72 degrees Fahrenheit.  I’d like to add that two kind college students entered my life and shared a day with me on November 3, 2017.  Thanks to Michael and Samson, I had a wonderful and memorable day.

Still Cruising Around Japan and Asia


Still Cruising Around Japan and Asia

 

October 26 through November 2, 2017
I met my roommate on a previous cruise and when her friend was unable to make it, she invited me to join her on this cruise around Asia.  We shared a balcony cabin, a real luxury for me because I usually book an internal cabin and pay the single supplement fee.  I was very excited because the first port was to be Kagoshima on October 28 and my cousins and I had planned to meet at the Kagoshima train station and have lunch together.  They live in Miyakonojo, about a two hour train ride from Kagoshima.  I had printed out maps and researched ways to get to the train station from the pier.  I considered the bus, tram, and train.  All were convenient and I was confident I could manage to get to the train station and we had decided to meet at the post office across the street from the station.
The only glitch was the weather.  My cousins had been following the news and they were in the middle of Typhoon #22 or Typhoon Saola as the weather stations reported it.  They found the Princess Cruise website and knew before I did that the ship would not be able to dock in Kagoshima as the port was closed.  We were all disappointed but plan to meet in Okinawa in three years so we are looking forward to that pleasurable event.  I kind of knew intuitively that I might not get to Kagoshima so like many Japanese travelers do, sent my smaller carry on luggage with gifts by delivery service to their home.  The cost was nominal, about 17 U.S. dollars, and kudos to the delivery service who delivered the suitcase to their home in the pouring rain!  The cruise line credited our accounts $50 for the missed port.
On Halloween, pumpkins created by staff members were on display in the atrium.
 
Chan May, Vietnam, was to have been our second stop on November 1.  I really wanted to walk the grounds where my brother had walked 52 years ago.  He served two tours in Vietnam and suffered from PTSD, a condition not even defined then.  He died at age 35 of meningitis.  Separation and the divorce of my parents precluded me from getting to know him and I always feel sad when I think of him.  Continued bad weather brought an announcement from the captain informing us that the pilot refused to come on board and that the port was effectively closed.  He announced that we would receive $100 for this missed port.
By this time, many passengers were grumbling about not seeing anything yet and a group held a meeting.  The leader of the group went to the purser’s desk to complain and summoned the entire group to join him.  This is when staff members felt uneasy enough to call the captain and he started by voicing his dismay over the group’s behavior on the loudspeaker and informing us that the group members had been identified and risked being taken off the ship in Hong Kong.  Rumors swirled and gave us some respite from the monotony of the ocean views and rocky journey.
Most passengers knew that the captain was our hero, keeping 2600 passengers safe by using his experience to guide the ship around the typhoon, reducing speed in choppy waters and communicating with different ports and the Princess Cruise main office.  On November 2, he informed us that we would be given credits of one-half the fare paid on this cruise to use on another cruise before December 2018.